Hi
First which model is it ie Petrol/Diesel etc where are you? Do you only do short journeys ,has it only just started doing this? The steering maybe the trackrod ends need replacing and dont forget it has power steering fitted.

 

Hi
sorry its a diesel in the uk very cold at present

 

Hi
sorry its a diesel in the uk very cold at present
just bought it, also how often does timing belt need to be changed and how long to do job, is it a diy job
thanks

 

Thanks for that, I am in Reading area, how much do garage charge to do timing belt, anybody know.
Regarding the heater I did 90 miles the other day and still blows cold
cheers

 

Couple of years ago before I'd done one my local Kia dealer wanted £537.35 to do the belt. If after 90 miles and its still cold then I'd have a look at the thermostat and change it, if its stuck open the engine would'nt warm up so no heater.

 

do simple test
start the car in the morning, touch all of the coolant lines and see which one is the warmest. Check radiator lines (in and out). They should be cold. Then, let it run for couple of minutes, check again (it should be warmer, right?)
Check radiator too. If you feel ANY heat on radiator itself, or inlet line than very likely thermostat is stuck open.

Side note:
the inlet line may get warmer (partially) due to convection and some other heat exchange processes. The upper part will be warm, while bottom part (of the inlet line only) will be cold. Nothing should be detected on the radiator itself, nor on the bottom line.

I bet you checked coolant level...

 

I have a similar problem-could be air locked

I know we have been around this buoy before but I cannot get anywhere with an airlock in my 2001 Sedonna 2.9 TDI. I recently had one of the rear heater pipes go just above the spare wheel and replaced the two which were corroded with rubber pipes. It all worked fine but what I did do was to fill the car up with water and test it while the rear was up in the air on the ramps. I therefore assume I introduced an air lock in to the system. I tried everything (both heaters on whilst running, massaging the pipes even taking the rear return pipe off with engine running but the airlock will not budge) I subsequently took the bottom hose off the radiator and put the front of the car on the ramps to drain the system down and ensure the front of the car was the high point and refilled it with water. Still the thing seems to be air locked and now the front heater only works intermittently. Sometimes the heater works and sometimes it doesn't but when it does get going and we are on a run it is fine. Until then the thing is intermittent. The rear heater rarely gets warm.

The water that came out was not particularly dirty or sludgy and when I had the bottom hose off I put it back on and filled up a couple of times and let it back off again to flush any sludge that might have built up out, but I didn't see any. I also noticed that the temperature gauge is a bit erratic now. I have ordered a thermostat and am going to fit that this weekend just in case along with another £5 of antifreeze...!! I assume the thermostat is in the housing just below the pressure cap? I suspect the thermostat might be having a bearing on the problem but it is being masked due to the cold weather and the fact that we are only undertaking short journeys at the moment.

My main question does anyone have any ideas for getting this air lock out? Should I draw the whole system down and start again? Is there a good way to fill it back up again? Engine running maybe? This air lock is doing my head in especially in the freezing cold.

Garteful for any advice.

 

I know we have been around this buoy before but I cannot get anywhere with an airlock in my 2001 Sedonna 2.9 TDI. I recently had one of the rear heater pipes go just above the spare wheel and replaced the two which were corroded with rubber pipes. It all worked fine but what I did do was to fill the car up with water and test it while the rear was up in the air on the ramps. I therefore assume I introduced an air lock in to the system. I tried everything (both heaters on whilst running, massaging the pipes even taking the rear return pipe off with engine running but the airlock will not budge) I subsequently took the bottom hose off the radiator and put the front of the car on the ramps to drain the system down and ensure the front of the car was the high point and refilled it with water. Still the thing seems to be air locked and now the front heater only works intermittently. Sometimes the heater works and sometimes it doesn't but when it does get going and we are on a run it is fine. Until then the thing is intermittent. The rear heater rarely gets warm.

The water that came out was not particularly dirty or sludgy and when I had the bottom hose off I put it back on and filled up a couple of times and let it back off again to flush any sludge that might have built up out, but I didn't see any. I also noticed that the temperature gauge is a bit erratic now. I have ordered a thermostat and am going to fit that this weekend just in case along with another £5 of antifreeze...!! I assume the thermostat is in the housing just below the pressure cap? I suspect the thermostat might be having a bearing on the problem but it is being masked due to the cold weather and the fact that we are only undertaking short journeys at the moment.

My main question does anyone have any ideas for getting this air lock out? Should I draw the whole system down and start again? Is there a good way to fill it back up again? Engine running maybe? This air lock is doing my head in especially in the freezing cold.

Garteful for any advice.

The thermostat is below the filler cap on the Diesel motor. Just as an idea have you tried ringing up the local Kia dealer and asking to speak to the workshop? sometimes they are helpful and other times you get some neanderthal who worked on a Model T and still thinks he is.

 

regarding my heater not working Have just noticed water coming out of header tank when car is reved.
regarding the air lock could you put hose pipe onto a pipe and try to push it out

 

or head gasket...
different car, different engine, but the same problem
idle no heating, high revs some heat (not so much though), pressure was building up in the vessel while revving, bubbles coming out - tried dozens times to bleed it - no luck, replaced heater core - no help at all.
removed head - all clear. Gasket. Enough to cause heating issues, not enough to show water (coolant) in oil or exhaust.

 

How do I check that head gasket is ok

 

I am getting a little heat on idle temp gauge stays just on first line

I will try rad cap and stat and see what that does
thanks for all your input.
how big is doing head gasket?

 

The head gasket in its self is not a big job if you are handy with the spanners, but the cambelt has to come off as well so you may as well do the cambelt and water pump all at once to save having to revist it later on.

 

I am not saying this is the cause, but possible...
if your car was overheated, if it has many miles driven (100k or so), if sometimes gives problems to start, if some water in oil, if white smoke coming out... and some other factors
if some of them you said YES, gasket may need replacement.
the best way is to... remove head.
there are some tests (like pressure test on cooling system)
do not exactly remember how they do it in UK, but I am more than sure someone from the island will tell you.

fill out profile, please
to find out where you live and what you drive (did not remember 100%) I had to go back to first posts...


EDIT:
gasket is some work, not a huge one, but a lot. Labor mainly... parts - just a few (gasket, maybe bolts).
did you test thermostat as I advised before?
http://www.kia-forums.com/kia-carnival-sedona-forum/56398-sedona-heater-not-working.html#post274526

 

Just ordered stat, will see what that does
thanks

 

how much would I expect to pay for cam belt / water pump and head gasket replacement, as car is not worth that much.
what is the best workshop manual to get if I do do it myself.
I am quite handy, changed a jag v8 engine in the summer but is this as involved

 

Header Tank

Just had a thought which probably won't help!! but on my 2.9 the header tank is unpressurised so there must be some sort of valve between it and the system or the coolant will blow out of it ( one of your problems). Guess it must only open to top the system up once pressure drops? Think i saw some mention of this somewhere else but haven't had the car long enough to yet find ont, but sure i will once I have to fit the new heater pipes that are currently in the boot!!!!

 

Still Having Problems

I think I might be in for some bad news with my Sedona. A little while ago one of the rear pipes went and the car ran dry for about 12 miles. I did the pipe and all went well except the rear heater didn't work. Then it appeared to be air locked and the front heater and temperature guage became a bit erratic. So i changed the thermostat. This hasn't really helped and when I look in the header water bottle there is a constant flow of little bubbles coming from the feeder pipe. I think with the car having overheated when the pipe split and the ongoing water problems and bubbles it is almost inevitable that the head gasket has gone, after all them bubbles have got to be coming from somewhere pressurised like the cylinder.

I would be grateful for anyone elses opinion though?

I called a couple of dealers (lincoln and Grantham) and both said they would be able to do the head gasket for £650ish. Oh My GOD...!!! The gasket set costs £60.00 off e-bay. Does anyone know how hard it is to do the head gasket and whether any specialist tools are required?

Many thanks for any advice.

Mike

 

I think I might be in for some bad news with my Sedona. A little while ago one of the rear pipes went and the car ran dry for about 12 miles. I did the pipe and all went well except the rear heater didn't work. Then it appeared to be air locked and the front heater and temperature guage became a bit erratic. So i changed the thermostat. This hasn't really helped and when I look in the header water bottle there is a constant flow of little bubbles coming from the feeder pipe. I think with the car having overheated when the pipe split and the ongoing water problems and bubbles it is almost inevitable that the head gasket has gone, after all them bubbles have got to be coming from somewhere pressurised like the cylinder.

I would be grateful for anyone elses opinion though?

I called a couple of dealers (lincoln and Grantham) and both said they would be able to do the head gasket for £650ish. Oh My GOD...!!! The gasket set costs £60.00 off e-bay. Does anyone know how hard it is to do the head gasket and whether any specialist tools are required?

Many thanks for any advice.

Mike

Hi Mike

If you are handy with the spanners then its not a hard job, but seeing as the cam belt has to come off I would change it and the water pump to save having to revist it later.